JULIEN COURTOIS (Soings en Sologne/Loire, France)

There may not be a more peaceful spot in the Loire than in the heart of Sologne, among the rows of vines owned by Julien Courtois. Finely manicured and tended by Julien and his sweetheart Heidi, a New Zealand implant, their 4.5 hectare slope contains recovered vines as old as forty years old. Julien followed his father Claude (a pioneer in the region for natural wine) in reinvesting hard work to bring damaged soils back to natural harmony. Now, his Romorantin, Menu Pineau, Gascon, Côt, and various Gamay clones grow in absolute biodiversity and natural splendor. Animal life passes through without mention. There is plenty to feed and rest on with all the natural herbs and flowers planted among the vines. Note: this is not a land left to the birds. It is remarkably neat in its organic design. The soils here are incredibly organic as well, allowing the vines to dig deep into the silica and silex-dotted red clay. Julien has little to do but harvest beautifully ripened fruit and allow it to make itself into wines of elegance and concentration, except when chasing his daughter about the cellar. It is new, equipped with tonneaux of several ages. All fermentations happen naturally and only drops of SO2 are added early in the process, virtually disappearing before bottling. In winter, in order to control yield, vines are cut short. With spring comes pruning and upkeep of the vines. To guarantee a traditional, natural vinification, grapes are picked at the peak of ripeness, when the sugar level is high, and is vinified without chaptalization, acidification, and without concentration of the juice. This process results in honest wines.
Time seems to stand still here—all the better for wines. The family is part of this diversity, too, living in a small trailer behind the new winery. They seem to fit in without disturbance, not noticing the world zoom past them but acutely aware of the rhythms around them. It explains why Heidi came to work a harvest and never left. We hope Julien does the same and we can continue to taste a bit of nectar from this little slice of Eden en Loire.

‘Ancestral,’ Vin de Table, 2007
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“Ancestral” is made from a unique blend of Gamay Chaudenay, Gamay Beaujolais, Gamay (from Franc de Pied vines), Gascon and some Côt. There is a one-week maceration after pigeage in small resin tanks. Finally, it is blended in tonneaux barrels and fermented using wild yeasts before being rested in barrel for eighteen months until it is ready to rack. It is bottled with low SO2 without filtration or fining.

‘Element Terre,’ Vin de Table, 2009
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From Gamay Chaudenay vines planted in 1970, yields are very low, at about 25 hL/ha. Grapes are handpicked in small batches and fermented after pigeage with natural yeasts before being assembled into tonneaux to finish fermentation. The wine is then aged for eighteen months on lees and racked once without filtering. Bottled with extremely low SO2.

‘Esquiss,’ Vin de Table, NV
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Made from Menu Pineau from Julien’s oldest vines (42+ years), grapes are hand-selected and small-batch pressed, yielding only 11 hL/ha. It is then placed in large tonneaux to ferment with wild yeasts and then aged on lees with some bâtonnage. Finally, the wine is bottled after racking without filtering or fining. Julien uses minimal SO2.

‘Originel,’ Vin de Table, 2010
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80% Menu Pineau, 20% Romorantin
Grapes for this dry white are handpicked at the height of maturity and then immediately pressed in small batches in old fûts. Fermentation occurs with only natural yeasts before the wine is allowed to age on lees until it is ready. It is bottled after one racking, without filtering or fining, and with minimal SO2. Yields about 20 hL/ha.

‘Autochtone,’ Vin de Table, 2010
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100% Romorantin
Grapes are handpicked in small batches and fermented after pigeage with natural yeasts before being assembled into tonneaux to finish fermentation. The wine is then aged for eighteen months in fût before being bottled without filtering or fining.